Mercado da Ribeira – Lisbon Marketplace

Time Out Magazine has transformed and saved one of Lisbon’s oldest market halls into a complex of some of the best restaurants and gourmet food suppliers in the Portuguese food industry. Neatly organized all under one beautiful 13th century domed roof just off Avenida 24 de Julho, the highway opposite the Tagus. A Lisbon marketplace with an eclectic addition of hip pop-up restaurants with vast wooden communal tables and trays upon trays of gourmet treats for people to taste and combine to their liking. In the back of each restaurant there are bars one can sit at for a more personal experience. A great concept,  extremely lively, with a mix of edgy tourists-in-the-know and locals. This place used to be one of the most famous fish markets in Europe. The history in and of itself gives it a great energy when you are walking around in awe.

During the day there is a large food market encasing the tapa restaurants, with small shops selling fish, meat, and flowers adjacently. The produce and meats looked fantastic, with huge selections of locally grown fruits, vegetables, and herbs.

I had befriended Nuno, the nut master, upon my very first hour in Lisbon. I was looking for olives frankly, usually near a nut stand, but Nuno specializes literally in nuts and only nuts and runs a stand called “Frutos Secos do Mercado”. Salted, sugared, caramelized and au naturale. His salt caramel almonds are something of the gods. I decided to give up on the olives and eat the nuts obviously.

I couldn’t try all the venues so I had to choose carefully. I chose the “Tartar-ia” eventually, but was quite difficult as literally everything looks worthy. I perched myself up onto one of the small stools at the back part of the stall, which I found quite comforting, sort of reminded me of the big market in Barcelona… I really loved how there were two options, big communal spots for groups or back bars for more privacy.

The tartar-ia is owned by Maria Machado, and she invites every month one guest chef and allows them to have a different suggestion for each of three categories, which are vegan, beef, or fish. At my visit, Chef Ivan Tronci who runs the Heinz Beck kitchen, had been chosen. Awesome concept. Totally decadent. Extremely healthy. Gluten free, pro IBS without even trying and Paleo -all without even a mention of the above. In the middle of a small economy stricken European city – gasp- we have a blossoming food culture developing. I was really blown away.

I was initially disappointed that the menu that offered four types of fish actually only offered two (and of course it being tuna and salmon), but was surprised by the take and individuality the chefs gave these common fish in such simple and now very common recipes. Alas, I ordered the salmon and the tuna. The herring and smoked trout for another time. The waiter, who had seen my displeasure I suppose, proudly began to explain the intricateness of these simple dishes. Also, one can order by the gram like caviar- so it allows you to try a variety of dishes like a tapa- and not break your bank (or your stomach).

Tuna tartare with ginger and sesame says the menu. Not so descriptive and sounds like 90s Nobu. Turned out to be quite excellent indeed. Arriving in a perfect mound along with basil oil, ginger mayo, teeny radish rounds, avocado puree, and delicate wee shiso greens. Oh and a small mention for a black crunchy cake-like crouton. No less than beautiful.

Next: salmon. Served in gelato style scoops with the sauces elegantly squirted around the meat to add some style and oddly topped with a non-interesting savory macaroon. A rich and too thick ponzu sauce and a very pure avocado emulsion were the main accompanists… For crunch were teeny frisee bits. Very tasty- and I enjoyed it – but texture? It was mushy in a baby food-like way which ruined its elegance and delicacy, the salmon was like a puree. I think just more salmon, less chopped, and a little less sauce for a better balance.

On another visit I tried “Mariscada Azul”. I sat at their little bar during lunchtime and the place buzzed with tourists and locals alike. I tasted the soft and dense octopus salad, seasoned with tiny diced red peppers and dressed with a fragrant delicate olive oil. Clean, simple, and elegant. I really cant get my head around how the Portuguese get all of their octopus so perfect. But it makes me very happy.

I also checked out the “puntillitas” which are Spanish style baby squid. These were heavily battered and deep fried, which I felt took away from their delicate soft flavor, but they were delicious nonetheless, served in a smart paper cone. As I was on my own, I was not allowed to order small portions of the shellfish on ice stuff, but it looked really fresh and appealing. A great seafood stop.

There is loads to pick from and so many ways to explore it- with friends, on a date, quick solo lunch… There is also a great shop, “A Vida Portuguesa”, selling chic Portuguese goods and products like soaps, salts, and baskets. A large cheese and meat shop called “Manteigaria Silva” is also worth checking out, as they have an excellent selection of local products. But there is everything in here- wine, cocktails, gelato, sweets…I even feel bad giving this review as it barely touches the surface and I went several times during my trip. Definitely worth a visit.